And We’re Off!
We went to Put-In-Bay with the friend that drove my wife home and anchored in front of Perry’s Monument for the evening. We ended up motoring the whole way due to lack of wind. We anchored and after ensuring we weren’t dragging, took the dinghy in to shore and walked around a little before heading over to dinner at the Keys. We sampled Conch Fritters, a Bahamian delicacy – YUM! After dinner we headed back to the boat and sat out for a little while enjoying the clear, starry skies and then plopped into bed for the night.
We woke on Sunday to a cool SW breeze. We went in to shore for a good cup of coffee over at Wharfside and ended up eating breakfast there. Then we headed back to the boat and had a wonderful sail home. Winds were 12-20 knots – perfect breeze and a lovely sail. We finished off the day with dinner at Orchards, our favorite restaurant. Monday we ended up there again for happy hour and enjoyed coconut shrimp and mussels along with a martini – $5 each! Gotta love Mondays. I got the apparent wind steering for the autopilot installed, we decided our test will be at departure.
Wednesday we ironed up last bit odds and ends; last minute boat and grocery shopping, laundry and final preparation for getting underway. A friend of ours graciously offered to drive us around since our car is now gone. We went to the chiropractor for a much needed adjustment, then off to Krogers for grocery shopping. It was so hot that we decided to by a pint of Graeters double chocolate chip icecream which we proceeded to demolish while sitting outside in the shade. It was good! Then we went over to West Marine for a few last minute things and headed back to the boat to pack it all away. It was so hot – all we could do was lay around and rest until the sun went down, then we took a walk and showered before watching an episode of Midsomer Murders on Netflix before hitting the hay. This was definitely the hottest day we have had so far, the heat index was over 100!
Thursday we awoke early and went for a walk before the heat of the day kicked in. By 10 am it was 90 and very sticky. We put on the mainsail anticipating our new sail cover which comes tomorrow. Then to protect it from the sun we covered it with sheets and towels. The whole process took until noon and by then we were both drenched in sweat. Another day of 90 plus with very high humidity. I spent the afternoon below working – hiding from the sun with a wet towel around my neck to keep me cool.
Later in the day our dock neighbor came by and gave me a ride over to the store so I could pick up cooking fuel and safety flares, the last 2 things we needed before departure. We also took the time to stop at Tofts for the last time and we enjoyed a serving of Caveman Chocolate – our favorite flavor. Then we needed to fix something with our Yankee (front sail). We ended up having to take it down and lay it out on the street to get it fixed. By the time his was all done we were both dripping in sweat so we took the dinghy for a ride to the beach where we waded around in waist deep water and tried to wash the boat to cool off. We put Windsor in for a swim too as he looked pretty hot as well. He was NOT amused. He’s a great swimmer but water isn’t his favorite place to be. Of course we had to give him a bath once we got back to the boat so he wouldn’t stink once the lake water dried. That impressed him even less.
Today we filled the water tanks for the last time and now we are just waiting for my stepson to visit and say goodbye – he’s taking clients Walleye fishing this weekend – AND pick up our new sail cover and then we are off! You will be able to track our position using this link here. We appreciate all your prayers for us for a safe trip. We are on our way! Friday – July 21.
Almost There…
So the inverter came in and after drilling a few holes for the monitoring gauge, we had it installed and running. Hope it holds up. Our test of the inverter did not go well, it turned on just fine and worked as it should but the fridge was on and within 30 seconds our battery alarm went off indicating that the batteries were not holding a good charge. Once more we will have to fork out some moola and get ourselves two new batteries. We researched and decided we will get AGM batteries which behave a lot like the new cellphone batteries; they charge quickly and hold a charge well. So that means we need to finish the wind generator install, solar panels, charging system and the new batteries and then we will be ready to leave.
Our tentative departure date is as soon after the weekend of 7/15 as possible. Our first stop will be Erie, PA and to get into our travel schedule, we will start by taking a number of 2 day sails, leaving in the morning, traveling through the ensuing night and hopefully ending up somewhere the following evening where we can get a good night’s sleep before taking off and doing the same thing again. By doing this we hope to catch up a little to our schedule so we can spend the time we want in the places we earmarked as must visit. So, our initial stops will be Erie, Port Colburne in Canada (entrance to the Welland Canal), Port Dalhousie (exit of canal), Toronto and then Kingston.
My biggest fear is that when we leave, the wind will leave too! The last 3 days we have had great winds, but they were out of the North East which is unfavorable for us. Prior to that we had a week of strong South Westers which would have been great for travel, so we are hoping that when we leave the winds will be favorable to our journey. Summer winds tend to be light but in the end, God is in control, so we will follow His lead as we travel.
July 4th weekend came and went. It poured – 2 inches or more – on Thursday and Friday, and were were starting to go stir crazy being all cooped up in the cabin. But Friday evening the skies cleared and we had a beautiful, cool weekend with plenty of sun and a pleasant cool breeze. I worked at my job to make up for some time I missed, and we visited with friends at a marina in Sandusky.
We had quite a scare at our marina that weekend – I was sitting in the cockpit on Saturday afternoon enjoying a glass of cold white wine when I heard a whump! Hmm – there is a guy at the marina next door that always crashes into his dock EVERY time he comes in. Not that though, sounded more like an explosion. So I stood up and looked in the direction of the sound and there was a huge pall of jet black smoke. There was a powerboat on fire at the gas dock, slowly drifting away towards the homes on the other side of the channel. As it drifted towards the houses, a fireman jumped into a zodiac dinghy in his full gear, and was taken over to the boat where they got a line attached and were able to haul it out away from the shore until the fire department arrived on the East shore.
Then they let it drift towards the firefighters on shore where they were able to put the fire out. All that was left was a melted pile of fiberglass, and the engine block, – the boat burned down to the waterline and sank. All this happened in about 15 minutes, a sobering reminder of how quickly things can turn ugly. Thankfully no-one was on the boat, but the pump attendant did get flash burns. My thought was static discharge. Although it hardly ever happens in summer, Saturday was unusually dry and crisp, and that made the possibility of static discharges quite a reality. We found out later that the boat had 2 fuel tanks, and that the one on the far side of the boat was too far away for the hose to reach, so instead of turning the boat around, they opened up the windows in the cabin and passed the hose through the windows to reach the farther tank. This allowed gas fumes to accumulate inside the cabin where the bilge blower and sniffer couldn’t handle them. Careless and stupid.
We were invited to go out on a friend’s boat on July 4 for an evening of fireworks. We went out and drifted around for a few hours and watched fireworks which seemed to be literally everywhere around us. We were lucky to have a beautiful evening with a spectacular sunset courtesy of our Lord. God manages to amaze me every day with the beauty of His creation, the sunsets we have seen since moving onto the boat have been truly spectacular.
With a tentative departure date set, we started to plan for our needs – what foods we wanted to take with and what other miscellaneous items we needed to have with us. Up till now, all the food we have been eating on the boat except for veggies, fruit and salads were things we bought from our pantry on land. We have been making a concerted effort to eat the things we don’t want to take so we have room for the needed supplies we do want to take along with us. That planning includes food for the dog, so we have a 6 month supply of Windsor’s favorite dog food neatly stowed under our bed. He seems to be adjusting well to living aboard and the three of us have been exercising diligently, walking at least 3 times a day in between me working and us doing our boat chores.
We made a final trip home to pick up a few things and drop off stuff we thought we needed but didn’t. Its amazing how there are things you attach value to and just can’t do without, then you move on to a boat and realize after a month or so that its really worthless and merely taking up space. We stocked up on food we wanted to take for the journey – stuff from Costco and vitamins from our local health food store. Its amazing how quickly you can blast through money when you are buying food! 10 minutes in the store and you are out a few hundred quid! I do not know how large families deal with grocery prices; wages are not going up but food costs sure are.
We headed back to the boat and after unloading all our goodies, we went out for a sail. Our friends who live up here in a condo on the island sailed their Hunter over and we anchored out on the North side of Kelleys Island and spent a wonderful evening hanging out with them. We woke early on Sunday and had breakfast before enjoying a makeshift worship service. We had a contemplative reading , and then sang some worship songs to the sound of an acoustic guitar. Then we headed back – beating into a dying South West wind. After 3 hours and having only made it half way due to the chop from all the boat traffic, we relented and turned on the engine to motor the last few miles back.
We said goodbye to our dock neighbors as they won’t be here again until after we leave, and then headed over for some Tofts ice cream to finish off the day. The next day started out with storms; a big complex of thunderstorms passed through in the morning which made it difficult to work outside. The delays and inclement weather are making us anxious to depart. We pretty much spent the day inside and then went out for a free dinner to Bistro163. The restaurant is a ministry geared to helping improve food security for people in the Port Clinton Area. When you eat there, you can pay more for your meal if you want and then that excess goes to pay for food for patrons that can’t afford the cost. It is staffed by volunteers from the community and local churches. There was even a local group of musicians serenading us while we ate, singing songs and hymns we all know from our childhood. The food was great and next time you are in the area, please support them! Here is a google map link to help you find them.
Next day we woke up to rain – AGAIN!! It did finally blow over and clear up mid morning, but that gave way to some VERY HUMID conditions as there was water everywhere from the morning rain as well as the deluge we experienced the day before. We had breakfast and I took the dog for a walk before knuckling down to work. Around noon we had lunch and then spent the afternoon getting the wind generator installed. We managed to get the pole up but that was about it. 12 holes drilled and then we found out after installing one of the braces that the other 2 were located on parts of the boat where the fiberglass was thicker. Had to run to the store AGAIN and exchange the bolts I had purchased for longer ones so they would fit properly. It was quite a performance; shopping for the wire, bolts and other knick knacks needed along with actually installing the mast ended up taking the whole afternoon. We showered and fell into bed exhausted.
The next day was a write off – we drove to Pittsburgh to say good bye to my mother-in-law. Its a 3 hour drive so that pretty much took the entire day. It rained for most of the morning so there wasn’t any lost time for outside work. Then when we got home we walked and showered and went to bed, only to be woken up by the next round of thunderstorms rolling through. We had left the windows on the lee side of the boat open because it was so hot and humid, and in our foggy sleepiness we forgot. So the dog’s bed got soaked, as did the seating cushion on that side. Ah well, at least the laptop didn’t get wet. It rained and stormed for 4 hours, finally quitting just around sunrise. There were warnings all day prior from our weather apps on our phones to the effect that there would be torrential rain – BOY they weren’t kidding! Our dinghy filled up with water, so I had to pump it out just in case there was more rain later in the day.
The weather held, but we sweated through the day. It was unbearably humid and tried to rain all day. Towards evening the clouds cleared and the humidity dropped, so we decided to work on getting the batteries installed. That was a circus act in the making. The area inside the lazarette (storage locker) is large enough to comfortably fit a small adult. My 6 ft frame was a tight squeeze. Then, add to that you are working at arms length AND not being able to see what you are doing because what you are working on is around the corner out of sight.
Needless to say it took me a good 3 hours to do what a person in a workshop with the tools and access could have done in 10 minutes. By the end of it all I was dripping with sweat and VERY frustrated. I yelled more at myself in those 3 hours than I have in years. After finally getting 1 battery operational so we could have cabin electric for bed time, I called it quits and rewarded myself with a stiff drink.
Next day we worked on the wind generator, the solar panels and the controller which keeps everything synchronized and working properly. We could not fit the generator on the pole with the existing rubber sleeve; the sleeve was too thick. So we had to improvise (duct tape) and with the help of a friend of ours, we got the generator installed on the pole and got the pole mounted and secured – WHEW. The solar panels were a little easier; they only weigh 4 pounds each, so we laid them temporarily up on the bimini top and used bungee cords to hold them in place, with permanent attachment to come later. This allowed us to run the connecting wires to the controller which I installed in the lazarette. While time consuming, this was not nearly as frustrating as my adventure with the battery hookup. By dinner time we had solar and wind sources both hooked up to the controller and everything worked like a charm. We rewarded ourselves with a glass of homemade Sangria and watched a beautiful sunset from our cockpit. The hot weather has broken and we are now less humid with about a 10 degree drop in temperatures, so we are back to good sleeping weather.
So, as the weekend rolls around, my wife is taking the car down to Columbus for the last time and a friend is bringing her back and spending the weekend with us. I will be getting the last battery installed and get the depth sounder tweaked (we thought it was broken – it wasn’t) and then the last thing we need to get is a bilge for the shower and we are on the road. No car once today is over so it will be strange not running into Tofts for a quick ice cream in the heat, but within 5 days we will be gone and we won’t see our dock again until next October.
Getting Itchy
Its been a month since our last post. Our plan was to leave on Fathers Day weekend, but that didn’t happen. There were too many things that needed to be installed, parts that were delayed and critical things that broke, so we will be delaying leaving until we have all that addressed. We have still been working like crazy and life has gotten easier now that the weather has warmed up. We had a pleasant Memorial Day weekend, then my wife left for California to visit family. The week she was gone I spent the entire time in sweats – howling North East winds with temps in the low to mid 50s made it tough to get out. The continuous rain didn’t help either.
The church we attend up here was preparing for VBS, so I went over to help them out on Wednesday evening. Thankfully the sun was actually out as I was working outside. I picked my wife up at the airport late on Thursday, and on Friday we headed back to the boat. Straight from freeze to fry! I haven’t worn a sweater since! It has been hot (90+) and humid and it has been hard to get used to.
The next block of equipment arrived, and we started installing away. The first big cosmetic change was the installation of lifeline netting. This completely changed the look of the boat, and with the netting on, the lifelines can no longer be lowered. It looks pretty good, and really helps keep the dog in – he can no longer jump to the dock, so we have to lift him over, but the added safety benefit is well worth it. We will however need to figure out an easier way to get over the lifelines and off the boat without standing on (and damaging) the netting.
Last year we re-did the interior of the boat and modernized the color scheme. While wandering around the local Dollar General, we found turquoise bath towels and my wife hit on a great idea – re cover the cockpit cushions with towels instead of sunbrella. It would be MUCH cheaper, and more comfy to sit on. So she whipped out the sewing machine and a few hours later we had a whole new look upstairs in the cockpit. 6 towels at $3 each – well worth the investment. And, when they get dirty we simply take them off and run them through the laundry.
Then my wife painted our boat cradle and got it ready to be alone for 18 months. A good fresh coat of paint and a name plate for each side made by her son (westcoastcurbs.com) and she looks brand new and ready for some time alone.
The next thing on the project list was the installation of the davits. These hold the dinghy out of the water while we are traveling, which helps us to go faster and keeps your lifeboat attached to the boat so you cant lose it. The installation wasn’t nearly as difficult as I thought it would be; all I needed was a drill, a socket driver and a level – a few hours and 6 holes later and we were in business!
Our new dinghy also arrived. We bought a Portland Pudgy – its a 4-person dinghy that also serves as a life raft. Its made of the same material that the plastic kayaks are made out of – its hollow and filled with foam which makes it unsinkable. Also, there are storage compartments for all kinds of nifty stuff. Playing around in areas where coral can play havoc with rubber boats will give us definite peace of mind.
The fun thing was figuring out how to secure the dinghy in the davits for traveling. There were all sorts of straps and it took a good 2 hours before I sorted out how it all goes together. Now we have a dinghy and a lifeboat (all in one) and that will give me peace of mind when crossing the ocean.
I also had to go up the mast – our spinnaker leader jumped out of the sheave and got jammed. I use leaders (cheap disposable line) to allow me to take the halyards off in the fall so that they last longer. Fixing the halyard has been challenging because it has been so windy and rainy since we moved up here that we have not been able to safely go up the mast to fix the issue. We finally got a nice calm day and I climbed the mast using our new main halyard as a safety line and got the leader unstuck so we could get the spinnaker halyard in place. Now all we have left to do is get the mainsail on, but that won’t happen until we get our new sail cover.
We had a pleasant surprise last week. One of my wife’s helpers in her Sunday school class came up to the lake on vacation, and we met her and took her family out for a sail. Her youngest daughter was in our class as well, so we had a wonderful reunion and for a change the weather that day cooperated as well. They have sailed before, both keelboats and dinghies, so we let everyone who wanted to drive the boat. The wind was perfect and we had a wonderful time. It was nice to step out of our routine and we felt blessed by their visit. Afterwards we went to the local Tofts ice cream store for some caveman chocolate (best ice cream EVER) and were treated to a gorgeous display – a sunset that truly showed the artwork of our Creator.
The next big task is the installation of part of our charging system; the mast and the wind generator. Then the last 2 things on our list – the solar panels and anchor chain – once installed will give us everything we feel we need to be able to leave. But – just when you feel like you are ready, stuff breaks. Our depth sounder and the inverter both gave up the ghost. So now we have to replace those as well. Thankfully the inverter is under warranty so it won’t cost anything to replace. Aah the joys of cruising on a boat – repairing your boat in exotic locations….
The Romantic Life
Life aboard was not so romantic to start. Day 1 it poured rain all day, and day 2 added a howling wind to the rain. We were cooped up inside the tiny cabin trying to work and get stuff unpacked and put away. We were chilled, we had originally thought that we had too much “winter” clothing, but in retrospect, I could have used more! Day 3 was cool and sunny and one of our boating friends paid us a visit. We sat up in the cockpit and chatted for a while in the warm sun, while downing our favorite white wine; Walleye White. Its from a local vineyard (Firelands Winery) and its light and uncomplicated.
Thursday we packed up and headed back to our old stomping grounds, then off to Pittsburgh to visit with family and attend a concert our friend was featured in. Just as well, Thursday and Friday at the boat were plain miserable; some of the stores in Port Clinton put sandbags by their entrances to stop water from blowing in. It was hellish – we were glad we were able to miss it!
Monday was sunny but cold, but by noon it was warm enough to work outside. We got the bottom painted, some more unpacking done and then Tuesday we launched. It felt good to feel the boat floating in her natural element instead of up on the cradle where the deck was 10 ft off the ground. Here are some pictures showing the launch process.
The water in Lake Erie is high this year. We docked without incident, and got settled in. I spent the day doing some remodeling. We had scavenged a bunch of teak (doors and trim) off a boat that was scrapped. We decided to use the doors to make new storage spots in the boat where there was space that was not being used. I cut the holes while my wife helped, and wouldn’t you know it – in spite of making very sure I had unobstructed cutting room, I nicked a water line with the jig saw! Water spurted everywhere – we hastily turned off the water pressure. That meant a trip to the store to get some plumbing parts to join the line back together. That done we turned on the water pressure to test my repairs and wouldn’t you know it – the other water line was nicked as well!
Water pressure off – another trip to the store to buy the exact same things I purchased an hour ago. Back to the boat, fix the leak and then with that done we were able to finish the installation of our new storage spaces. After cleanup – fiberglass dust really gets everywhere so thank goodness we covered everything – I tackled the assembly/fixing of our teak cockpit floorboards.
That was a circus performance! I was making good progress until the last board. One of the pieces I was attempting to put together with a mallet flew off and landed a good distance away in the lake. The wind caught it and it started to drift away. I ran back to the boat to grab the boat hook. I grabbed the wooden piling as I jumped aboard and WHAM – a nice sized wooden splinter sheared off and plunged into my thumb right under the fingernail. I was in a fair amount of pain and had to fight that off while grabbing the hook and fumbling to get it extended to reach the piece of wood which was now being taken away from shore by the wind.
I managed to get it extended and hooked the wood and brought it in to shore where I lifted it out and then attended to my finger. The splinter was a good size and luckily was sticking out from under the nail, so I was able to grab it and pull it out. Whew. After finishing the assembly of the floorboards we took a shower, and after enjoying a relaxing glass of wine, we collapsed into bed to do it all again the next day.
After a few days home babysitting the grandkids while their parents were out of town, we returned back to our home (the boat) and went right back to work. Our next project was the construction of a book shelf to hold the books in place and prevent them from flying around while we are under way. Then we tackled the mounting of our DVD player under a bookshelf at the navigation table so we could clear off a shelf for storage of our media. The last thing we tackled was the cutting of a storage area under the stove and putting a “gate” in place to keep the pots and pans from flying out of their spots.
One of the major pieces of equipment we had to replace was the wire from the front of the boat up to the top of the mast (forestay). This was made from aluminum and was an original piece of equipment from 1979 when the boat was made. It presented a risk – breakage would be a disaster and could have resulted in the loss of our mast! So we replaced it with a new stainless steel wire, and a furling unit that mounted over it to make rolling up the front sail (Yankee) easier. I spent the morning helping the rigger assemble the furler, and when done, the marina put up the mast, so we now have a boat with a mast on it – its starting to look like a real sailboat.
With all that done, we went back to our storage unit and started bringing our provisions back to the boat. While I worked, my wife packed and organized so we now have a boat where the floor is free of obstructions 🙂 Every day I work, then I work on the boat and we collapse into bed and sleep like babies. One thing about living on the boat; you are outside more than when you are in a house. That feels good although it would be nice if the weather would warm up a little.
The past weekend the wind howled and it rained and temps were in the 50s (10C) on Saturday so we were stuck inside packing and made brief trips outside only during breaks in the rain. The wind was out of the North East at 30-40 mph, which caused the water to pile up on the west end of the lake where we are located. The water was 4 to 5 inches away from covering the road where our car is parked, and we heard from friends that the water was up on the roads in some of the lower parts of town. Fish were swimming and eventually got stranded in the streets when the wind died down and the water level dropped back to more normal levels. The water level dropped almost 3 foot in a few days once the wind died down – a testament to its power.
Friends ask us if we are enjoying ourselves. We are! There is still a lot of work to do to get the boat ready, but things are taking shape and we are making progress. The excitement is building.
A Sad Goodbye
Change is sometimes unsettling. Sometimes its good and sometimes its bad. We have had a bit of both lately. We had the sad experience of saying goodbye to an old, dear friend. Rick has been in my life ever since I met my wife; she introduced us. He was a paraplegic, and when he died at 74 he was one of the longest lived paraplegics ever. Thankfully God took him quickly, he did not linger long, but he did leave quite a void in our lives. We will miss him greatly.
Then there’s the sad goodbyes related to leaving our home of 5 years and changing tacks in life to become live-aboard sailors. We had a huge garage sale last week and made ourselves a bit of cash. What didn’t go we donated to a children’s cancer charity – it all HAD to go regardless. So our past week was spent packing, packing and packing. Going back and forth to the storage unit and filling it to the rim with the things we want to keep. As much as we have gotten rid of, there’s still enough to cozily fill a 1 car garage. Its amazing how much we are keeping and how much we got rid of!
Wednesday we went to our final church group and was touched by the well wishes and prayers they said for us when we left. We loaded up the car – FULL – and headed up to the boat where we proceeded to unload and start filling every nook and cranny with stuff. Amazingly enough we got it all packed away, so we turned around and headed home to get load number 2.
Another trip up to the storage container to try and smash some more stuff into it and then we collapse into bed exhausted, only to get up the next day and start all over again. Saturday we got everything packed and were done with the storage unit! We decided to go to our favorite watering hole and say goodbye. But – no clean clothes as we had left all our clothes up on the boat. All we had were the clothes we were working in and our Sunday best for church.
We stopped by the Dollar store and purchased a cheap outfit for each of us, then headed home, showered and went out to dinner. We said our goodbyes to friends and then headed home where we collapsed into bed. Sunday we woke up and with great joy took our horrible mattress down to the car – we dumped it. Got dressed and went to church where we taught our final Sunday school lesson and I did my final security duty. Then we said our goodbyes to church family and went to see my son, daughter-in-law and their new baby. They now have 3 kids.
What a precious beautiful baby! We spent time there and then after eating , came home where we packed the car and then left. One more time to the storage unit – we weren’t done – and then we drove up to the boat. We arrived around 12:30 and collapsed into bed once again, only this time we knew when we woke up that our backs wouldn’t hurt as much since our bed up on the boat is MUCH better than the one we were sleeping on at home.
We are now live-aboards. The next part of our adventure has begun.
It’s All In The Details…
Wow! You finally get to the point where the house is starting to empty out and then the enormity of it all strikes. In 2 weeks we will be “homeless” – with only the boat to live on. We went out to dinner last night and I don’t know if it was the food or the TV watching afterwards, but neither of us could get to sleep. As a side note – we were watching a series on Netflix called “Midsomer Murders” – my parents introduced it to us on our last visit down there. GREAT show – we have yet to figure out the guilty party in an episode and we are now up to the beginning of season 4! Highly recommended!!
Anyway, so at 11:30PM we turned on the light and grabbed a notepad and started writing down things that had to be done before we leave the house. The list was HUGE!! Gifts for all our family birthdays in April, license renewal, wrapping up loose ends for things we are giving away, address changes for the bank, life insurance, cellphone service, scheduling the final electric meter reading and having the power turned off – that was just part of my list and I only have about 25% of the tasks! All these little details you don’t think about when living from day to day on land – amazing how much they clutter up your existence. And another thing – they add to your bills!
The nice thing about this is we will only have 4 bills next month; mail, cell phone, credit card and dockage – a FAR simpler existence that will allow us to concentrate on the things of importance, namely getting the rest of the equipment purchased and installed for the trip. This is proving to be daunting – I finally took a serious look at what still needed to be done, and its almost $25K worth – dinghy, lifeboat, safety equipment, fixing broken and leaky hatches, new forestay and roller furling, solar and wind generation capability – I know why they spell it BOAT – it means Break Out Another Thousand 🙂
After going over the list we realized that some of the stuff can be purchased and installed along the way, but some of the stuff – like the forestay, roller furling, dinghy, safety gear and lifeboat have to be done before we can leave. That means I will be doing a LOT of chores on the boat after I get done with work each day. Its going to be a tough road, but the reward will be worth it. Our departure date looks to be in the first half of June assuming we can get all the required chores done. Weather will play a part in this too.
We are both getting over colds too – while we don’t feel stressed, I think that the enormity of what needs to be done is silently taking its toll. Can’t wait for the next step to pass – our get-rid-of-it-all garage-sale – that big step will move us toward move out date and the start of the next part of the adventure.
Then there are the con-men – I mean seriously! I am trying to sell a riding mower in Ohio, and some guy calls me from California with all this stuff about a certified check; I called the bank and they said 10 days to clear, so I told the guy I will hold the mower for 3 weeks to ensure the check clears; strange how he just suddenly fell off the planet. Crickets…. Don’t people have better things to do?!? Happened to me 3 times today, all with the same M.O. !
Ah well, the joys of downsizing. Until next time….
We’re Shrinking
Strange title, but yes, our “house” is shrinking. We rented a storage unit, about the size of a single car garage, but the ceiling is not as high – about 6.5 ft (just over 2 meters). All the shelves we stored stuff on in the basement have been moved out to the unit and set up to receive our goodies. We purchased a bunch of plastic tubs to protect the stuff from rodents while we are gone, and the real work has now begun.
We pared down our clothing – TWICE – packed that up and took it out to the unit. Most of our kitchen supplies except for a few pots, pans, plates and glasses now reside in the storage unit. All the clothes we are not taking with us, most of our furniture and books, workout equipment, skis, the wall unit I made and a few other nostalgic items are now gone from the house.
The downside of all this is we have a HUGE pile of stuff in the living room – things we are selling at our garage sale – its hard to believe that we, who consider ourselves somewhat minimalist, have so much stuff we don’t need. Its sobering to realize how much you accumulate over a lifetime and it feels so good to let go of it and get rid of things. We always go through a clothing purge – once in the spring and once in the fall. Then we would go thrifting to get our “new” clothes. We have purges twice in the last month and we both keep wondering whether or not we have TOO MANY clothes – funny how your perspective changes when you are forced to pick and live with only absolute neccessities.
The other thing we have noticed is that the more we pack, the more stuff seems to show up – its almost like its breeding in a dark closet somewhere! We take out 5 or 6 tubs of stuff and we have still not made an apparent dent in what remains. It gets discouraging, but in actuality we really have made progress – the basement and 3 of the 4 bedrooms are pretty much empty. Some of the better furniture is now up on Craigs List – that will pare things down even more, so at some point we will actually see the fruits of our endeavors and feel like we have made significant progress.
As of March 31, we will have an active virtual mailing address. It is located in Tallahassee Florida, and it will allow us to “open” our mail from anywhere in the world. They scan the front of the envelope and put it into our inbox. I then indicate a disposition; open, shred or forward to a physical location. When you request them to open it, they do so and scan the contents and you then are able to view the contents online. There are a number of companies that offer these services to sailors and RVers – we took the least expensive option in a state with no state tax. Best thing about it is no more junk mail! Contact me privately and I will share the mailing address with you.
Furiously Preparing
This is the part that drives me crazy! We aren’t moving out until the month of April, so we cannot really pack until later this month, but we are both starting to get really excited. And time is ticking, so we feel anxious and the desire to make progress toward the goal every day almost becomes an obsession. The last thing we want to do is have a BUNCH of stuff to do at the last minute. So we pacify ourselves by doing one thing towards our goal each day.
The last 2 big events on our social schedule were my stepson’s wedding and a visit to my parents in Virginia. The wedding was a ton of fun! All the groom’s cousins and aunts and uncles came, so it was like a huge family reunion. The last 2 family meetings have been for funerals, so this was a nice change – a celebration of a happy event instead of the passing of a family member.
We drove down to see my parents and took the only mattress we have (a double) off our bed and put it in the back of the van. We slept at a truck stop to save money and made it down early Thursday. We had a nice visit and then headed home on Saturday to pick up the dog and now we have nothing between us and move out day except prep.
At this point our house is pretty empty. We have a basement full of food and tools, most of which we will take up to the boat. 3 of the 4 bedrooms are empty, so we are left with a double mattress, a dresser, a chest of drawers, 2 dining room sets, a glass table, some folding chairs and the stuff in the garage. We have given the kids all their stuff – pictures, memorabelia etc, and now we need to start moving the things we are keeping into storage for when we return.
Once we have that accomplished, we will have a garage sale and the rest of the unsold stuff will go to charity. It has been very liberating to slough off the trappings of a land based life. You realize when you go through the process how much junk and useless stuff you accumulate. We actually need very little, and our purchasing decisions from now on will be based on needs and not wants.
Some have asked us why we are keeping anything. We are not sure what we will do when we return. We don’t know if we will enjoy the nautical life too much and not want to return to land. We may go to California, and explore the West coast of our country, as well as Vancouver and Alaska – we just don’t know. So we are keeping the bare minimum; bed, place to eat, cookware, some clothing and tools.
I spent a fair amount of time resolving technical issues to ensure that I can work properly while on the trip. Part of that meant upgrading to newer phones that could handle the GSM signals – our old phones did not. Our nearshore internet issues were resolved when Verizon added an unlimited plan for $100/month – I was paying the same amount for 20-24GB, so that will help us when we are in cell range, and our satellite phone will only need to do voice.
Our next step coming up will be to virtualize our mailing address; we will be “moving” to Florida even though our physical location will be at home or in the marina until we leave. We are doing this early to ensure that everything is properly in place and all the kinks ironed out before they actually need to be.
We are also in the process of aquiring a storage unit and will start moving the stuff we know we are going to keep into the unit so we can fully ascertain what we will need to get rid of at the garage sale. Fun times ahead!
We are both getting antsy and the excitement is building. Poor puppy knows something is up because stuff keeps disappearing. We can only reassure him that he is coming along, beyond that I don’t know what he is thinking…
Testing The Waters (Part 2)
Day 10:
Next morning it was a chilly 37 degrees! Sunny, with a high of 59, and it was supposed to be in the low to mid 60s the following day. We left the dock around 9am and headed out of the harbor. Out in the river we were motoring at 11 knots! There was a 6 knot current right outside the marina, but once the river widened it settled down to 1.5 to 2 knots for most of the day. We made good progress; saw a lot of commercial shipping, and the day turned out quite nice and sunny.
We made good time; with the current we were able to make around 9-10 knots all day. We decided to push through to Portnouef which is just about 30 miles from Quebec. The captain from the other boat came over to our vessel around sunset, and we motored toward the destination he described. I found it on the charts and we set out to get there. Suddenly the whole navigation system went out. We spent about a half hour trying to fix it to no avail. It turned out the problem was due to our lady crew making a wholesome dinner down below for us, the electric skillet and microwave were sucking juice faster than the generator could handle it and our main batteries were down to 11.3 volts when they should have read about 13.
Once we figured that out, the instruments corrected themselves and started behaving again. We arrived at the marina around 10pm and the entrance was not properly lit. Note to self; DON’T enter a strange harbor in the dark, especially when the aids to navigation are off. We motored up very slowly trying to find the entrance. I was at the helm, and according to the charts we were passing by the entrance, so I turned the boat around and almost immediately we landed gently aground on a sandy bottom. We motored off, and started to head towards the entrance as shown by the charts. I went forward with a powerful flashlight to see if I could make out the entrance more clearly. Then I saw lights moving on shore. Two people had seen us trying to come in and they came to the entrance and guided us in.
Once tied up we talked the other boat in on the radio and tied up for the night. After a shot of whisky to calm the rattled nerves of everyone, we went to bed.
Day 11:
Next morning we woke up and it was 30 degrees. Fog rolled in, not super thick, but enough that we needed to use the radar when we ventured out. We got a slow start, so by the time we left the fog had lifted enough that we could see the river. Off we went, motor sailing at between 10 and 11 knots. The trip was uneventful. We arrived in Quebec city in the early afternoon. We had to pass through a lock to get into the marina; the tides are 16-20 feet here, and they want to keep the marina water depth consistent. We schmoozed with our dock neighbor who had a 100ft long powerboat, and then went to dinner in a small neighborhood eatery in the old town. After a delicious meal we wandered back to the boat for a little chat before turning in for the night. Tomorrow the crew will go on tours while I work:) The weather was beautiful; sunshine and 60s – hopefully a good harbinger.
Day 12:
I spent the day working while everyone else went shopping and touring around. The weather turned out beautiful; sunny and warm enough that I put on shorts and a T-shirt. When everyone returned, we went out to dinner at a french cafe called Echaude – enjoyed a great meal, but it was SERIOUSLY EXPENSIVE! Roughly $80 per person and I didn’t even pay for my wine – someone else did! I could never afford to live here. After dinner we went up to the Frontenac hotel – the castle that dominates the Quebec skyline. We poked around in all the downstairs rooms, libraries etc – very European and extravagantly done. Then we had a drink there and returned home to bed.
Day 13:
Next morning we got up early and prepped for departure. Once we locked out of the harbor and got under way, we discovered that the head was leaking. We did a repair on it the previous day, and found an orange piece of what appeared to be plastic or carrot in the joker valve. When re-assembling I think we forgot to properly tighten all the hose clamps. Oh well. Someone once said that cruising was “repairing your boat in exotic locations” – I hope that does not hold true for us when we take our trip.
About half way to Tadoussac, a layer of clouds rolled in, and it started drizzling. Then the fog rolled in. No biggie, with a full canvas enclosure we were all quite cozy. Then it started to get dark, so I took the helm. At 7 pm a strong cold front pushed through and within 20 minutes our wind went from 10 knots out of the west to 30 out of the North West. The fog was gone, but the wind was whipping up a nasty chop because it was blowing against the prevailing current.
The water was quite deep, so I turned and headed toward the windward shore about 2 miles away to try and reduce the fetch. The tide which was against us most of the day, holding our speed to 5-6 instead of 10-12 had turned in our favor and we were scooting along at 8-9 knots. The wind brought furious rain, it pelted us relentlessly to the point where I could not see out of the windshield. About 200 yards from shore we were in 250 ft of water, and a small town was off our port beam. Running along parallel to the shore, it felt like the traffic on the highway was coming right at us, a very spooky feeling.
The wind intensified dramatically, and soon we were in a full gale with winds sustained over 50 knots. The waves weren’t much of an issue due to the short fetch, but the winds were howling and were were afraid that it would tear the enclosure to shreds! Snaps popped off, and the canvas was flogging around threatening to beat us all to pulp. I was at the helm, trying to steer a course parallel to the shore, and one of the crew was hunched over the chart plotter telling me what I was seeing. The wind was a thunderous roar at 50 knots; I will say it shrieks at 60 – we took a vote and everyone was comfortable with heading on toward Tadoussac; our other alternative was to run with bare poles but with only 10 miles to the lee shore we would be out of room in an hour with nowhere to go. The chop close to shore was about 3 ft, very manageable, and once we had improvised a “net” of lines to hold the windward side of the canvas in place, the canvas issue became somewhat resolved and we could concentrate on finding our port.
Being in the dark in a strange place is very unnerving, we headed out under bare poles while we were getting the canvas squared away, and then headed back to the windward shore against some very stiff opposition from both wind and waves. We took a wave when the wind was over 60 knots and the jolt knocked 2 of the crew into the nav pod, and the instruments went out! We worked on getting them repaired while the rest of us steered and navigated in the inky darkness. One of the crew had her tablet with charts on it, so that became the backup and she guided me while I drove and tried to pick my way along the shore. The tide turned and our speed went from 9 to 3 – yes – 3! We had a reef to skirt which forced us out further from shore, and the results were not good, for about a half hour we were taking 7 footers on the port quarter and they managed to find their way into every nook and cranny – we were all soaked.
Half the crew, from having their heads down working on the nav equipment, got seasick. Once the sick were attended to, I drove, calling out landmarks, and the other healthy crew member found them on the chart and relayed me direction and distance information. During the whole thing, which lasted close to 4 hours, I kept repeating Psalm 23, and I talked to God, imploring Him to calm the waves and the wind so we could enter port safely. We had one last reef to get around before motoring up the channel to Tadoussac harbor. The Lord answered my prayers! As we motored in, we found the center channel mark, rounded the reef and saw the runway of red and green lights, and God calmed the seas, the wind backed off until it was in the 15-20 knot range, and by the time we got into the harbor, winds were under 10.
The tide was in so we had plenty of room to maneuver, and after a few tries fighting the wind and the current we tied up and were on the dock. Shore power! Change clothes! We all hugged each other and then proceeded to pour a 6oz shot of whisky for each of us and we unwound, talking about the night’s adventure. I looked out of the window of the boat and there, framed by the window was a white, lit cross on top of a church steeple. Tears came to my eyes, it was God showing us that he was watching and taking care of us. We made hot chocolate that we added a double shot of vodka to, and that really warmed the belly. We had left Quebec around 9am, and arrived at 1:30 am the next morning in Tadoussac. It was time for bed and I slept like a LOG!!
Day 14:
The sun was shining the next morning and we got underway. We were able to get all the nav instruments working again and so we set out against a rip current of 4 knots out the harbor with main and jib flying. It was a beautiful crisp morning. We had to dodge all the whale watching boats as we left; the dockmaster told us she had seen a Minke whale swimming around in the harbor when she got to work, but we did not see any. We left picturesque Tadoussac behind and headed North East to the Gaspe peninsula. The wind gradually backed to the South, and then died. So on a calm sea we were gently rolling along at 7 knots about 15 miles from the Eastern shore. Temps were in the 50s, but with no wind it felt like the 60s. Yesterday’s adventure was long forgotten…
We had our first injury of the trip. I was going up the companionway steps, and someone had closed the hatch. I banged my head on the lock and took off a nice flap of skin. It bled like crazy, but with 2 doctors and a nurse on crew, the wound was quickly dressed and taken care of. Then they put on a band aid and took a picture of me because I looked so silly. Guess I will be wearing a hat for the rest of the trip – lol. I didn’t feel too bad about it though,because one of the other crew did the exact same thing about a half hour later. We had a good laugh over it. The sun set and we agreed on a watch schedule. One watched until 10, one watched from 8-12, one watched from 10-4 and I watched from midnight to sunrise. It was an uneventful night, calm winds with a gentle breeze pushed us along at 7-8 knots.
Day 15:
We decided to push straight through to PEI since we lost so much time fighting the current and there were relatives that had invited us to visit. With the schedule we were on, we would be there by some time Sunday. Forecast was for favorable winds so we were all happy about that. When we had left Tadoussac, it was 47. I will say the night watch was cold! I wore socks and shoes, 2 pair of sweatpants, foul weather pants, a T-shirt, cashmere sweater, my new cold weather jacket, foul weather jacket and gloves. I was chilled to the bone by the time the sun came up, despite 2 cups of coffee to warm the innards. It was a beautiful sunny day, the cockpit was warm and so all was good. Fall up here is really beautiful. We stayed about 3 miles offshore and hugged the 600ft line. I was quite surprised at how many lights we saw – the entire coastline was populated; somewhat sparse in some areas, but that was not expected. When the sun came up, we realized why they were all at the coast; the land rose VERY steeply, and a half mile inland it could be 300 to 400 ft above sea level! Windmills dotted the tops of the hills, and surprisingly enough the cell reception was excellent. We stopped counting windmills at 150.
Our original plan was to gas up at Riviere Au Renaud, a small fishing port about 20 miles from the tip of the Gaspe peninsula. We pulled in and to our surprise, our travelling companion Island Dancer was tied up at the dock. They had continued on after the storm abated and sailed through the night when we pulled into Tadoussac. They did not motor, only sailed, and since the winds were so light, we had managed to catch up to them. We decided to spend the night, and tied up to a fishing wharf, rafting off of them. We made a yummy dinner; the local fish house was a 2 minute walk, and we bought a huge bag of mussels caught that day, cooked them up and ate them. Delicious dinner! Then we sat around recounting our stories of the storm adventure. The time came to plan our departure, and when we looked at the updated forecast it was for 30 knots out of the South. We all decided pounding into waves for 120 miles would be no fun, so Sunday was to be a lay day. We would leave early Monday for the shot over to Charlottetown, PEI.
Day 16:
We woke up the next morning and the sun was out, winds were light and we went to breakfast at a quaint little bistro that was a 2 minute walk from the boat. The meal was delicious and cheap! We had a great breakfast, and when we left an hour or so later, it was cloudy and the wind was howling! We had made the right choice. The wind was about 30 out of the South and was making strange moaning sounds through the rigging and tackle of the fishing boats. We were all glad we were snug in port! Ivan, the marina owner bought jerry cans of diesel to our boat, as the docks had been removed for the year. What a helpful guy. We invited him over for dinner that evening. He opened up the marina so we could take a hot shower that evening – that went over VERY well! We went to the fish store and bought mussels, smoked salmon and halibut. Two of us walked to the grocery store and bought the rest of what was needed to prepare dinner. We cooked up a wonderful meal and after some socializing we turned in for an early morning departure.
Day 17:
We left at 5am on the high tide (about 8ft) and headed out of the harbor. Our 2 boats, plus a 125 ft powerboat and a Volvo 60 headed out and turned for PEI. The skies were clear and the wind was light. There was a gentle rolling swell from the South, but not much in the way of wind. We would get a pocket of wind, then nothing. We made good progress around the Gaspe which has 200ft high cliffs. They were illuminated by the sun as it came up and it made for a spectacular vista. We had coffee, made breakfast and then I settled down to work.
As we passed by Perce, we saw a seal floating in the water watching us. We all grabbed for our cameras, but he was gone before we could get a snap. The cliffs of the gannet colony were mostly empty as baby rearing time had long passed. We saw a few flocks flying low over the water, and even saw one close up. It was in our path and swam out of the way as we passed by. A weak cold front was supposed to come through in the early afternoon and was supposed to give us 15 knot winds from a favorable direction to help speed us to PEI.
The cold front came through with little fanfare, but it made the seas very confused, and we were soon in a 25 – 30 knot wind off the starboard quarter. 2 of the crew got seasick in the confused sea and I had a crisis at work that I needed to get addressed! The ladies graciously took over watch for me while I furiously tried to develop a solution for the issue at work. Once finished – WHEW – I went up and the 3 of us navigated the boat through the night.
Around 4am, one went to bed, and right after that we started making our approach to the Northumberland strait – a narrow pass between PEI and the mainland. That whipped up a tidal bore which caused the boat to act as though it was surfing at 12 knots, but we were only moving 4.5 to 5, surfing 5-6 ft waves! Strong current! On the charts we found shallower water and made our way over to the inner shore. Once there and the water depth dropped below 30ft, things calmed down dramatically, and we no longer looked like someone that needed to be pulled over for a DUI. End of watch came and I went to bed.
Day 18:
I woke at 9 and started work – we were passing under the huge bridge that connects PEI with the mainland. Clearance was almost 200 ft in the center, and the bridge crosses a span of almost 9 miles! The seas were calm, and we picked our way through crab traps that were being diligently attended to by their owners. The water was dotted with brightly colored buoys – the color code I guess indicating ownership. Glad we did not come through here at night! We turned up the channel and headed into the harbor at Charlottetown. It was a very cute place, very New Englandey.
Our first task ashore was to demolish a bucket of mussels along with a bottle of wine – we passed that exam with flying colors! Then we went for a walk around town, and in the evening the relatives came to meet us. We went out to an Irish bar for a great dinner and saw pictures and heard about the lobster fishing business; that’s what he did for 25 years. We walked back to the marina and there was a near gale blowing the boat onto the dock and it was in danger of being damaged. We struggled against the howling wind to secure and stabilize the boat to protect it from the elements and eventually succeeded. One thing we learned is that the weather changed very quickly in this area, and when we take our trip, we will need to be very vigilant in watching for suitable windows of favorable weather when making some of the longer passages.
Day 19:
The forecast for the next week or so changed for the worse, and so it was decided that the boat would haul out at PEI and over winter there. The boat owners bought me a plane ticket home. One of the crew decided to drive home, so we picked up a rental car and I booked 2 rooms in a hotel for us right next to the airport. We went out for our last evening on the island and celebrated the journey by ordering a lobster dinner with all the trimmings. I took my computer on the plane and all the rest of the stuff came home by car, so the trip home was quick and uneventful.
I do know that I NEVER want to be away from my wife EVER again for that long a period of time. Communication was difficult for me because my phone plan said one thing, and my phone did another – I had no phone service, I guess because my phone was an older model and did not support the GSM network. We have rectified that so our phones will work properly when in Canada, and when in the Bahamas and the BVI, we will have IP phones courtesy of my Wirie (boat network) which uses GSM.