We were going to do the great loop this year but life got in the way. Our wanderlust got the better of us however, so we decided to take another trip to Michigan and visit some of the spots we enjoyed on our last adventure. Melanie’s youngest son was taking a camping trip to Lake Leelanau, so we would meet up with them in Traverse city around Labor Day. Our first priority was power. We purchased and installed a new wind generator and after an oil change and some regular engine maintenance, we were ready to leave.
we left early Wednesday morning, August 7 after fueling up at Anchors away and pumping out the holding tank. Tuesday was a very windy day with wind gusts up to 40 mph so we delayed our departure and were blessed with a beautiful wind out of the North-North East pushing us along at around 5 knots. We made good headway until we were about 4 miles West of Green Island. The wind slowly began to shift towards the North and then it faded completely. Eventually we gave up after our speed dropped below one knot and turned on the motor. The chart plotter resets itself when the motor starts and to our dismay would not reboot itself! We ended up using charts on my tablet and phone till we approached the entrance of the Detroit River. We prayed and asked God to help us get the chart putter going. I took out the flashcards and started it up again and to our surprise it actually booted! We were able to safely navigate in and drop anchor at our chosen spot.
After lowering the dinghy we went into shore and met up with Art and Carol for dinner. We had a wonderful evening and then returned to the boat for a good night’s sleep. Even though we were anchored close to shore, the current held the boat steady and we felt like we were at the dock! The boat barely moved all night. In the morning, we awoke to a beautiful sunrise then proceeded after eating breakfast to haul up the anchor which was absolutely covered in weeds! We made our way to the downward bound ship channel and proceeded up the river to our next stop.
We made slow progress up the river, but just before entering Detroit the wind switched so it was in our favor. We put up a staysail to help us and eventually the Yankee jib as well. Early in the afternoon we entered Lake St Clair and there we switched the engine off and used the wind only since there was very little current. We were able to make five to six knots easily which really helped our time and it was nice to not hear the engine banging away while working. We entered into the channel of the St Clair River around 6:00 p.m., passing by beautiful summer homes while avoiding the jet skis that were zooming up and down the channel making a pest of themselves. Melanie went down below after I finished work to make dinner for us while I took the helm. We had a beautiful sunny day with studded clouds and temps in the low to mid 70s, quite a change from scorching 90s and high humidity we had last week.
We enjoyed a delicious spaghetti and meatball dinner with brussel sprouts while the boat slowly wound its way into the main channel and then turned North toward Port Huron, our next destination. We were not able to fly the Yankee jib but the staysail was able to fill, so it gave us a little boost of speed against the current. Melanie made us a cup of tea and we sat and watched the sun slowly sink in the West. While doing so it colored the sky and clouds with the most beautiful oranges and pinks we have seen in quite a while. Once Darkness settled, we dressed for the cool night and Melanie laid down to catnap while I drove the boat through the darkness up the St Clair river. Things are very different when it’s dark and you really have to pay attention to the chart plotter and the various lights you see on the water. It’s quite nerve-racking because it’s hard to judge distances. After motoring through the darkness for what seemed an eternity, we arrived at Port Huron around 4:30 in the morning.
We were able to pick out a spot to dock, so we tied the boat up, walked Windsor and then fell into bed fast asleep. We were both quite cold from the night air. We awoke around 7:30 in the morning to a beautiful clear sky and a south wind. We dropped our dock lines and headed out towards Lake Huron. Melanie made us breakfast and coffee, always a good start to the day. We had a nice breeze from the south pushing us so we unfurled the jib to help us fight against the current coming down the river. It gave us a good extra not of speed. We moved slowly up the river, under the bridge that crosses between Huron and Sarnia and entered Lake Huron. As we passed under the bridge into Lake Huron, the river narrows and the current increases greatly. With the sails up we were making almost five knots and when we got to the bridge we slowed down to less than two!
Once we were far enough away from the river, we turned off the motor and raised the rest of the sails and made good way with the wind graduating increasing until we had all sails down except for the jib. It was quite windy and we were making a good way under clear skies but it was quite a ride. We were close to shore so the waves were not too big but nevertheless it was quite an adventurous ride. Wind gusts up to 30 miles an hour made going down below rather challenging. After hours of slogging through some waves which splashed over the boat soaking us completely, we made it to Harbor Beach. 10 hours of hard work.
We tried to drop anchor close to shore and it got caught up hopelessly in the weeds and started dragging, so I had to pull it up, clean it off and reset. The second time it held and we closed up shop on Deck, put the hatch covers in and went down below to a toasty warm cabin heated by the engine. Melanie made a quick dinner of salad and tuna noodle casserole and we tried to watch a little bit of TV but we were both exhausted. After a hot cup of tea and trying to watch something we both decided it was time for bed so I did my last anchor check and then we went to bed and slept like babies. We were up just after 7:00 and by 7:30 we had raised the anchor and were on our way to Harrisville. The wind was much lighter, only about 10 knots instead of the previous days 25 to 30 so we started out motor sailing with the two jibs. That gave us enough speed for us to be able to make good time to our next destination which was almost 55 miles away.
As we approached the tip of the thumb of Michigan, waves started to build to 4 to 6 ft and the wind increased dramatically from 10 to 15 up to 25 and higher. Our speed slowed as I took in the Yankee jib because our sailing angle was too tight. We were doing two knots and pounding quite a bit with waves washing over the front of the boat. Melanie hooked up a shower curtain as a temporary wind and water block and it was very effective. The bow of the boat was plunging through the tops of some of the waves and one of the waves shook the anchor loose. I went up into the front of the boat to make sure it was properly attached and the boat punched through a wave and I was standing in 2 feet of water! I stowed the anchor and returned to the cockpit where we both decided it was too rough so we turned around and sailed in a MUCH calmer fashion back to Harbor beach. With the wind now behind us our ride became much smoother and more palatable. We made good time back to Harbor Beach where we arrived around noon with our tail between our legs. We dropped anchor, cleaned up and then headed into shore after lowering the dingy.
We spent a wonderful afternoon wandering around town, picking up a cup of coffee, some pulled chicken and an ice cream along the way. We just walked and let Windsor spend some time enjoying the smells on dry land. The museum had a wonderful swing in the backyard and we sat there for an hour or so while Windsor happily chased the squirrels in the trees. He had a wonderful afternoon. We headed back to the boat when the skies began to look a little foreboding and sure enough, shortly after we had raised the dinghy and strapped it in place it began to rain. It didn’t last long and we were able to sit out and watch a beautiful sunset and then retired to bed. We set the alarm for 6:00 a.m. so we could get on the road early in the hopes of making it to Harrisville the next day.
6:00 a.m. came around soon enough and before long I was dressed and hauling up the anchor. We headed out into the lake and turned North toward Harrisville. The day started off pretty much the same as the previous day. We made good time but were apprehensive about hitting the open water near Port Austin; that is where the bad waves and wind really hit us the previous day. Two miles past our data buoy the wind was still roughly the same and slowly moving to the West which gave the sails more thrust. It ended up being an uneventful day; we motor sailed and made good time pulling into port around 5:30 in the afternoon. The wind during the day slowly went to the west, then the Southwest, then South then East then Northeast! That was not in the forecast! We tied up safely, took Windsor and went into town searching for ice cream and a place to eat. We had dinner at a local bar and then went to the ice cream store for our Michigan pothole! The person serving us was the same person that had served us two years ago! It was like stepping back in time. We fell into bed that evening exhausted and slept like two logs..
Next day was a long day of work for me while Melanie went grocery shopping, did laundry and other miscellaneous chores. We saw people come and go from the marina, there is a lot of traffic in and out of there as it’s the only place to stop for many miles. We befriended the man in the boat next to us and it turns out he is heading back to Port Clinton and is looking for a place to talk so we gave him the information about our marina. We enjoyed our conversations after work and took another stroll into town after dinner for another sample of ice cream. Harrisville is a very quiet peaceful little town and will always hold a special place in our hearts. After a shower we went to bed and woke up early the next morning to prep for departure. I filled the water tanks, we took Windsor for a walk and then dropped our dock lines and departed. There was not a breath of wind; the lake was as calm and flat as a mirror. It was going to be another long day of loud Motoring, I guess that’s better than being bashed around below while trying to work LOL.
I was right, the wind did not materialize until we were almost at our destination so we had a long day of loud motoring. It really was a beautiful day though, not a cloud in the sky and barely a ripple on the water. We saw the odd boats passing by, both going in the same direction and the opposite direction to us, a few large ships, some fishermen and that was about it. I made good progress at work and right when I finished for the day the wind finally made an appearance – just enough for us to unroll the sails to give us a little boost toward our destination. We anchored in Presque Isle Bay Surrounded By sandy beaches and pine trees. I watched the anchor hit the bottom, the water is so clear! We anchored in about 15 feet of water and then went to the task of replacing the engine fuel filter. The RPMs on the motor had been fluctuating a little as if it was not getting enough fuel so our immediate thought was to replace that filter. After that Melanie made a delicious dinner and we sat out listening to the bald eagles and the loons calling for each other. It was a beautiful calm evening.
Melanie made a delicious chicken salad with Cherokee Purple tomatoes that our boat neighbor in Harrisville had given us. They were delicious, and followed by a chocolatey dessert after which we watched the sun slowly sink below the horizon while listening to some relaxing piano music. This definitely makes up for all the lousy weather we experience during our journeys.
Next morning we awoke to a light Breeze out of the East. We left Presque Isle and started sailing with the Spinnaker. After an hour or so the wind died and we were back to Motoring. The wind gradually built up and we were able to use some of our sails as well and during the course of the day it got stronger until we had two to three foot waves. They were pushing us along so it didn’t feel too bad although towards the end of the day the wind angle made it so that the boat was rolling from side to side a lot. I was not able to finish working because I was afraid I would get seasick. We arranged for a dock in Cheboygan and pulled in around 6:00 p.m. Melanie made an interesting variation on Lox for dinner and we fell asleep exhausted after watching a movie.
We went to a local breakfast place the next morning for a filling mail and I worked that day late Into the night, stopping only for a short while to get some pizza in between bouts of rain. Saturday morning I finished up my work tasks and then we took a walk into town for some coffee and to shop at the farmers market. We wandered around town before heading back to the boat where we cleaned up and prepared for departure. We made a reservation for Mackinac Island and during the afternoon a boat pulled in next to us from Kelly’s island! We spent some time chatting with him before Melanie made dinner. Meatballs and vermicelli, yum! We took another walk and found a Causeway over the swamp with beautiful views of the lake and the cattails, then came back to the boat, took a shower and watched a movie before heading to bed.
Sunday we morning we took a walk and then ate some breakfast and had a good cup of coffee before preparing the boat for departure. We left, fueled up, pumped out the holding tank and then headed out into the lake to our next stop, Mackinac Island. We started off with full sail and sailed toward Bois Blanc Island before tacking and aiming for Mackinac. It was fairly calm, the waves were only one to two ft, but the wind was quite strong. At one point we had to roll up our jib as we were heeling too much but the wind moderated a little and we were under full sail at a nice clip toward the island. As we sailed up the South Shore of Bois Blanc, the Grand Hotel slowly slipped into view on Mackinac Island. Clouds thinned out and little pieces of sunshine warmed us.
We were near the harbor entrance when we lowered our sails, turned on the engine and motored into the harbor. We hailed the Harbor Master to find out where our dock was and then pulled in quietly and easily next to a small power boat. Our location was ideal. We were at the very end on the east side so we had quite a bit of privacy but were close to everything. The marina is across the road from a park at the bottom of a hill and at the top of the hill is the fort. We took Windsor for a walk and then returned back to the boat where we got changed and headed over to the Grand Hotel. We strolled through town which was extremely busy, up the hill and entered the hotel.
We had to buy tickets which we did, and then we walked through the hotel looking at some of the historical memorabilia and went up to the fourth floor where there was a restaurant inside a cupola that had a wonderful view of the surrounding area. We ordered mimosas and a chicken salad sandwich and white fish dip. Everything in the hotel was extremely expensive. The bill for that along with the tip was over $100!. The atmosphere was really wonderful, we explored the hotel inside and then went down into the gardens below and walked around admiring their flowers and the landscaping, then returned back to the boat and took Windsor for a nice long walk. The evening was approaching and long lines in town heralded the departure of all of the day tourists. It became decidedly quieter and it was quite pleasant being able to walk around and not be hustled and bustled by thousands of people. After our walk we took the shower and fell into bed exhausted.
I worked for a few hours the next day finishing the data load for a new client. Then we took a walk to Arch Rock and enjoyed the beautiful scenes of nature. Melanie had hung up a few shirts to dry in the cockpit and while we were down below eating breakfast, one of them came off the hanger and blew into the water and sank right next to our boat. She saw the empty hanger and we looked around and sure enough, it was laying on the bottom a short distance from the back of the boat. I got out the fishing rod and tried to hook it to no avail. SO we gave up and headed off to Arch Rock and enjoyed a wonderful cruise through nature. We admired the scenery, hiked the steps, went to the nature sanctuary and then walked back to the town. It’s amazing how short the walk back is compared to the walk there. We stopped at the Ice House restaurant for an early dinner because they are one of the few restaurants that allows dogs. We enjoyed a wonderful dinner before retiring to the boat.
All day my mind had been going about how to get that shirt off the bottom. We had a fishing lure that had three sets of three hooks on it so I put that on and after some patient jiggling, we were able to hook the shirt and rescue it from the depths! It was easy to see, the water was about 10 ft deep and crystal clear so it was just a matter of figuring out how to snag it. We were going to head over to Arch Rock to watch the full moon rise in the evening but we were both tuckered out from the long day of walking so we watched a movie and fell into bed exhausted. The wind was blowing from a slightly different direction and there were a lot of more waves, rocking boats in the harbor, squeaking dock lines so our night was not exactly restful. After a cup of coffee and a quick walk around town to stretch our legs we dropped the dock lines after filling the water tanks and headed off to our next stop which is hopefully Charlevoix.
We left with a number of ferries out of the harbor at the same time, and the huge wakes from one of the boats caused our coffee pot to slip off the counter and break in the sink! Thank goodness Melanie had already poured us at least one cup of coffee. No more coffee maker, we are now down to a French press until we can find a place to buy a new one. The wind was from the north around 10 knots and with our wind direction we were able to make an easy five to six knots without the boat heeling, which made it great for work. I did not have to hang on for dear life while trying to do my job lol.
